Tuesday, July 31, 2012

A Tale of Two City Guides

On a recent pre-sea shipment arrival morning we decided to follow one of the "walks" in a prominent travel guide, promising us a former medieval complex in the core of the elegant city of Vienna. It all sounded picturesque, so off we went.

A lovely boutique appeared through an archway.
We emerged from the archway to see Schottenkirche, a centuries old church that had been redecorated in the Baroque style (hence the former medieval complex).
Very pretty interior.
The whole of the area was filled with Baroque mansions with sculpturally-adorned facades our guidebook suggested we explore, which all pretty much looked like this...
...and excitedly highlighted this 18th century building as the "chest of drawers house." It didn't impress the children.
The walk from this point took us through Freyung Passage, the lone highlight of the walk.  The "Freyung Square" was once a place of sanctuary; now the fountain mermaids delight shoppers and cafegoers who stroll the corridor.
The passage was pleasant to walk through, and although I was tempted to spend many Euros at the French market, I realized that I had not brought my shopping trolley and had little desire to hand carry my purchases home. I will learn.
In part, the children agreed to this walk to see the Hermann Gmeiner Park with its whimsical playhouses. Or so said our 2012 edition guide book. We were naturally disappointed, then, to not see any houses. Or anything whimsical, for that matter. A little research later uncovered that the houses had been removed several years ago. Guess the intern who edited our guidebook didn't check that entry. All in all it was a pretty ho-hum sort of walk.
Fast forward to today and our daily dose of sightseeing. While visiting Schonbrunn a few weeks ago we found a just-perfect "Vienna City Guide for Children" for Anna Grace containing fun city walks with interesting themes. Today we chose the "Saints and Monsters" walk that began near Schwedenplatz.

The Jesuitenkirche, the interior of which my guidebook described as "gaudy."
Certainly we've never seen swirled pillars before, but, gaudy?
 Loved the ceiling!
From Jesuitenkirche the tour moved through an arguably less than aesthetic Gasse (although some of the graffiti was interesting)...
 ...past the Alte Schmiede haus (the old silversmith)
to Schönlaterngasse, a street with pretty lanterns to keep the streets lit at night...
...because in a deep well beneath Number 7 lived...
 a basilisk! Whomever looked at its face would perish!  One day a brave lad held a mirror to the basilisk's face, and, voila!  The basilisk was vanquished! A niche along the street tells the story well (and we assumed the lad would win the fair lady's heart, of course.)
After all that drama it was time for quiet. The calm Heiligenkreuzerhof (Holy Cross Court) offered just what we needed, frolicking angels and all.
Moving through the court we found ourselves on Fleischmarkt, no longer the butcher's street but not without interesting sights.
Jungendstil, Vienna's fresh approach to design from the turn of the century. There are lots of Jungenstil designs around the Naschmarkt--another tour for another day.
 And the Griechenkirche, the Greek church in what was formerly the Greek merchants neighborhood.
Near the end of our tour was Griechengasse 9, where cannonballs remind people of the Turkish siege.
Saints and monsters!  Light-hearted and fun! Too bad there's only five walking tours left to investigate in the book. 


Sunday, July 29, 2012

The Morning Routine

Strategically perched on the sofa, Clayton Theodore waits for the first signs of movement from the breakfast table. Soon we are out the door to walk Tony to the tram.
His routine is now set. We must watch the tram come...
 ...and we must watch the tram go.

 Now the morning walk can proceed. To the vineyards we go. UNO City to the East.
 Cloudy skies to the West.
 Grapes are readying themselves for harvest.
 Even the thistle is getting in on the game.
 But now it is time to go.  Until tomorrow.

Sunday at the Prater

Tradition in our family calls for our daughter's July birthday to be celebrated twice: the first time, on the actual day in July, with family; and then again in September, with friends who were scattered for the summer.  Some day she may not like celebrating the passing of time twice, but for now she finds it just wonderful.

We cobbled together a weekend celebration commencing with a little shopping for a new edition to her Lego Friends set. Great disappointment awaited us at Müller, where all of the sets had been sold out.  A last minute decision to have lunch atop Gerngross, along Mariahilferstrasse, took us past Gerngross' toy department where, as luck had it, a plentiful supply of Lego kits were available. Hurrah!

The weather gods were playing mean tricks on us again Saturday evening, and spoiled our plans to continue the birthday celebration at the Prater, Vienna's vintage-esque amusement park. Sunday, however, dawned with great promise, so before the forecast clouds could ruin the day, off we headed on our bicycles.

Like DC, Vienna has numerous trails to enjoy. We rode along the Donau Kanal...
 ...with pretty views all around (including something in the distance that may be worth investigating!)
 As inspiring as these yogis are, I fear I would never come undone if I tried this.
 The Prater.
 A stroll along the Prater Hauptallee, via pedal power for some...
...and puppy power for others.
 A large version of the class desktop model invites investigation.  Why must it be marred with graffiti?
 The vintage Reisenrad.
 Pony-powered carousel.  How charming.
 The Prater Turm. Of course my children want to go on this ride.
 No fear, these two.
 Up they go!
They're up there somewhere.
 No hands!
 Now this is a scary ride. Going inside a giant clown for a laser-filled roller coaster?  Of course!
 Thrills abound for my daredevils. Thankfully this was before lunch.
 And so was this.
 Are the boys really contemplating "Crispy Crap"?
"XXL Hot Dogs" beats Crispy Crap. Maybe next time.