Saturday, January 24, 2015

150 Years of Vienna's Ringstrasse: Important Palaces

So, 2014 has ended and with it, all of The Great War exhibits that I so enjoyed. This year brings the 50th anniversary of The Sound of Music, one of Austria's least favorite movies (though they love the tourism dollars); Vienna serving as host for Eurovision; and the 150th anniversary of the Ringstrasse.

Vienna's Ringstrasse (Ring Road) stretches for approximately 5 kilometers around the historic center of the city. When commissioned by Emperor Franz Josef in 1865, it was the largest municipal project of its time. In between the important buildings constructed, the subject of a later post, the wealthy built their palaces. There are more than 800 buildings lining the Ringstrasse, but do not fear: most are just your run-of-the-mill Baroque and Renaissance structures that didn't make the "most important" cut.

This is the entrance to the Vienna Economic Chambers. It is neither an "important building" nor a "beautiful palace," but I admired both the entrance and the main staircase and thought to share them with you.

Palais Epstein. It was built for the wealthy industrialist Gustav Ritter von Epstein, and over history served an administrative function for the Third Reich and the Soviet headquarters between 1945 and 1955. It lies adjacent to Parliament and now serves an as auxiliary building.
The Palais Dumba, home to another wealthy industrialist, once held a grand library that was destroyed during WWII.
The stunning Palais of Archduke Wilhelm Franz, who was at the time the Grand Deutschmeister of the Teutonic Knights. The palais served as the seat of the Viennese SS from 1938-1945, and is now home to the OPEC Fund for International Development. I took a peek inside, but there is not much to see from the security gate. Tours of the interior are available for groups, so I am rounding up friends for a future visit.


Another diversion. Vienna was once a walled city, and a remnant remains in the foreground of Palais Coburg, now a luxury hotel once nicknamed Spargelburg because the columns resemble stalks of asparagus. Oh, those wacky neoclassicists.
Some of the palaces have been converted to luxury hotels.

This is the former palace of the Archduke Ludwig Viktor, Kaiser Franz Josef's little brother, apparently quite the troublemaker in his time. Eventually the Kaiser banished Ludwig to the countryside because of a "mysterious escapade."
This is Ludwig. He's quite the hooligan.
Photo courtesy of Wikipedia
The Palais Todesco sits adjacent to the Vienna State Opera, and was built for the Baroness Sophie von Todesco, who established a prominent salon for the arts in her little home.
Lastly, this pretty pink palais housed the Salon of Berta Zuckerhandl for intellectuals and artists. It is now home to Cafe Landtmann, a longstanding Viennese cafe so full of itself that it charges visitors for tap water. 


Swine Dining in a Slovakian Dacha

Well no, not quite, because the Russian dacha culture is as unique as the Austrian's Gemütlichkeit, but being in the foothills of the Little Carpathian Mountains, and with the snow falling, made us feel as if we were on a holiday. And after a week of highs and lows on both home fronts, this food holiday was just what I needed.

The occasion was a Pig Feast. No, not Pig Fest, but Pig Feast. We arrived a little before midday; by this time the other half of this lovely, lovely, piggie was being prepped for lunch.
We were not alone in our enthusiasm for swine dining.
 The brave opted for fresh roast pork outside.

We, not so much. At a reserved table and delivered by white-gloved waitstaff, the first course: an aspic of roast pork and onions with homemade vinegar. Oh. My. Growing up, this dish was very casually prepared in a square pan, with wedges cut like brownies. This was much prettier.
The main? Roast pork with potatoes and sauerkraut, of course. We have never been served a meal by white-gloved wait staff, and nor have we ever, ever had roast anything that tasted as good as this roast. Ever. After lunch we wandered a bit outdoors to walk off our meal, catching snowflakes on our tongues, smelling the pine trees, and otherwise savoring the experience.
Because meat grinders and red wine pair well. 


The rosy glow was from the gusty wintry weather, and not at all from the glasses of Frankovka Modra we enjoyed with lunch.
 We explored the little village below the dacha before heading home, too. An unremarkable rural and slightly shabby Central European village with the requisite town gate, and three churches.



By good fortune we missed a turn heading home and spotted a small store selling Majolika pottery. I am not a big fan of the patterned pottery, and the kindly shopkeeper spoke only Slovak and Russian, so we resorted to the other universal language of "Euros and Pointing" so that I could bring this gorgeous tall water pitcher home instead.
Is that not a beautiful color combination?
To end, a bunker along the way home that I had not spotted on previous border crossings. And just when I thought my day could not get any better.

Monday, January 19, 2015

Organizing the iPhotos

I am close and personal with my network guy, but every once in a while he asks, with great patience in his voice, if I could possibly clean up the photo server. I obliged him and found a few snaps to share.

Like mother, like daughter. Same black sweater (both are mine) and A-line skirts. The skirts are also both mine, though somehow one of them migrated down the hall into Anna Grace's closet.
A snap from a Sunday evening performance at AIS of opera, cello, and piano pieces by local artists. A lovely start to the holiday season.
From a couple of weeks ago, a most enjoyable Friday performance at AIS by a Steinway pianist and the MS orchestra.
We pass this stately manor house on our way to the barn. Adjacent to it is the "Ludwig Reiter Manufaktur" and I've wondered if there was a relationship. I finally got around to doing some research and learned that the Ludwig Reiter company once manufactured boots for the officers of the Imperial Army; in the absence of an empire, the company now handcrafts beautiful leather shoes and accessories, and does so from the former Schloss Süßenbrun. 

One of our favorite meals whilst the seafood-loving College Student was home. Though it doesn't hold a candle to lobster from J.T.'s and fried clams from Cobies on Cape Cod, it was a respectable platter of grilled sea bream and langoustines nonetheless.
Finally, standing with France the best way I know how. Oxtail Pot-au-feu. Je suis Charlie. Ich bin Charlie.



The Life of an Ex-pat Foxhound: School Sporting Events

Old Glory hangs in the gym (along with the Austrian and Vienna flags), and there is American junk food for sale at the Boosters Bar.

But there is one special way that the school is oh-so-unAmerican. It is DOG-FRIENDLY!  Clayton Theodore has often joined us for outdoor sporting events; this season, for Anna Grace's basketball games, we thought he might want to experience an indoor event. Sensory input is essential for the well-being of a Foxhound, of course. On this particular day he also had company in a little white dog and a big Rhodesian Ridgeback. 
 A different kind of sensory input.  "Mmm. That Boosters hamburger smells delicious!"
 Worn out from all the love given to him by two teams of middle school girls.
It's a good life for an ex-pat Foxhound.


Saturday, January 10, 2015

Have Vignettes, Will Travel!

For the last couple of years the corners of our vehicle's windscreen have been decorated with country-specific vignettes, the annual highway access sticker common in much of Europe. This year it's the Austrian vignette in the upper right; the Czech vignette in the lower left; and for the first time ever, the Slovakian vignette in the upper left. We're ready for any border crossing; with Hungary we pay-as-we-go, since many destinations can be reached without use of the main highways.

But enough of the boring stuff. A travel goal this year is to explore more of Slovakia, the "gateway to elsewhere" it seems. On Saturday we started working on that goal.
The drive toward Slovakia certainly makes one wish they were elsewhere.  The large OMV petrol refinery greets drivers leaving Vienna first.
A few kilometers later windmills dot the landscape. They are only marginally interesting any more to me, and even then, only when they're spinning.
Old border crossings never, ever disappoint. This is a crossing from Slovakia into Hungary.
Our destination was Čunovo and its modern art museum that juts out into the Danube; on our return we trespassed a little in Rusovce. 
We are fans of modern art not because we understand it, but because it makes us smile. This museum made us smile, and its setting was worth the visit alone. Plus, the outside garden and walking paths are dog-friendly!  We were so impressed with this little museum that we purchased an annual ticket, to return again and again, and with Clayton Theodore in tow to chase the many birds along the rocky shore.

This is my terrible iPhone panorama from inside the main salon. We could have perched upon the benches and watched river traffic for hours.

The curator discovered we were American, and from Washington, D.C. and was excited to share impressions of his recent visit to the Smithsonian, and his upcoming visits to NYC, Boston, and Chicago. This piece is heading to London shortly, and he suggested we enjoy it before it leaves.
 And speaking of NYC, this "Evolution" caught our attention.
 As did this world map.
 A final snap from the garden before we departed.
So about that trespassing. On the return we decided to take the scenic route into Bratislava for a later lunch, with a brief stop in Rusovce to see an old Hapsburg mansion. Seeing something like this from the road just wouldn't do, so we quickly drove past the "Do Not Enter" signs on the open gates and parked inside for a quick peek. Others were doing the same. Safety in numbers.
The estate was once the home of Hungarian Prince Lonyey and Princess Stephanie, the widow of Crown Prince Rudolph of the Habsburg Empire. In exchange for the exiled safety afforded by the abbey at Pannonhalma after the war, the prince left the estate to the Benedictine Order. Nazis and Communists had offices in the building, of course. Efforts by remaining family members to return the mansion to the Benedictine Order are being thwarted by the Slovak government, so until there is resolution this beautiful mansion will remain a forlorn treasure tucked into a little village. 

 Across the lane from the mansion was the Yankee Pub. We passed, opting to sit for lunch at a small and charming local place.
Fooled you!  This is not Zander, but Forelle. Still delicious, though.
Afterwards, motoring toward the capital were the panelaks of Petrazalka and the beacons of Bratislava. Soon thereafter, a "quick stop" at the Tesco for dinner (and three bags of other stuff).


Not what you think in the car window adjacent to ours. Miroslav Šatan is a hot shot footballer for one of the Slovakian teams (I had to Google that).
And then, home.