Wednesday, September 30, 2015

New York, New York: To Market, To Market

Of course I would seek out markets in New York.  On one particular early morning I made my way to Manhattan's Chinatown. (I am reserving the "real" Chinatown in Flushing for the next visit.)  Canal Street is the epicenter.


Rather serendipitously I had watched a food documentary during my week in New York on what goes on after dark in the city. No surprise, the city is alive with vendors moving practically everything comestible around the while New Yorkers sleep. And sure enough, my early morning visit to Chinatown caught the crabs still pincing and the frogs still hopping.

Quite a few "pop-up" vendors were plying their wares, as well. Conch meat, anyone?  Fresh turtles for soup, perhaps?

In the markets there were food (?) items even I did not recognize.

Yeah, well. It's Durian fruit. Cat hair probably makes it taste better.
Tucked between shops serving incredible traditional fare was this hipster coffee house. A sign of the decaying times. 
At lunch I found myself at the insanely organic Union Square Farmer's market. The market has an app and a monthly, earth-conscious, plant-root dyed magazine printed on recycled paper.

Not cheese, but rather, yarn.
Mmm. Mint tea made from well water, no sweeteners added. Pour me a glass.  This also happened to be the market where I sat for a $10 grilled cheese sandwich. Not worth it, but I was hungry. Desperate times, desperate measures.

One morning I set out for the trendy Chelsea Market, hoping to catch a glimpse of one of the Food Network "celebrity chefs" that tape their shows in the floors above. No such luck, though I did enjoy checking out the "trends."

Farmstead meats that are "Meaty."
Farm to Table. How novel. (Insert sarcasm.)
Bowery Kitchen Supplies. Yes, yes, of course I shopped here. 
"Japanese inspired Mexican" food is now a trend. You read it here first.
Old school trendy. El Donkey Burritos for breakfast, Los Tacos for lunch.

Trending humor at Chelsea Market...
And if all that market shopping makes you tired, a little forest bathing might be needed.





Monday, September 28, 2015

New York, New York: Libraries as Grand as Museums

Who would not want to curl up on one of J.P. Morgan's velvet sofas with a book from his West Wing Book Vault at the Morgan Library? Alas, one is not even permitted to touch the furniture.

J.P. Morgan's main library is across the marbled rotunda from his personal study. 

That encased book on the left?  One of the two Gutenberg Bibles I viewed while in New York.
Among Morgan's collection is the first ever use of the U.S. Seal, by Ben Franklin.
A special exhibit was running at the Morgan Library in celebration of the 150th anniversary of the first release of Alice in Wonderland.  Many original sketches and notes were on view, some of which could be photographed.  

On another afternoon I lingered in the NYCPL.  Between the reading rooms and the special exhibits, only the hopeless could not be inspired to read after visiting this space.  If we lived in NYC, poor Tony would have to fetch me from the city's libraries each night. The kind folks who staff the NYCPL Map Room would have Tony's mobile number on speed dial, and each night they would request him to, "Please collect your wife. She is asleep again with her arms around the Giant World Atlas book and we can not wake her." 
"Patience" and "Fortitude" are the two lion mascots who guard the building.  


Lego Lions. Just as fierce.
Museum or Library?  The aroma of words on a printed page gives it away.
In the rotunda on the second floor is another Gutenberg Bible on display for all to appreciate.  Most unfortunately, the adjacent Main Reading Room is under restoration until 2017, so I shall have to wait to see the room again.
Another small disappointment was that the original Winnie-The-Pooh, who usually holds court in the Children's Section, was out for his annual checkup, along with Eeyore, Piglet, and Tigger. The friends will all be back when we return next year, though.  So, I blew a kiss to Clifford and carried on.
In the book shop, for the faithful who color.

Adjacent to the library is Bryant Park. Leafy, shaded, completely WiFi-ed, and the perfect place to enjoy a cup of tea while contemplating the remainder of the day.

Ah, New York.





































We Came for The Cows

And the food. And the wine. But, mostly the cows.  All across the Alps, from Switzerland to Austria, the cattle (and sheep and goats) are brought down from their alpine summer grazing to winter in warm and cozy barns. Tradition holds that if no accidents occurred during the summer, the animals are to be decorated when driven down in the fall during "Almabtrieb" or "Almhoamfahr'n." 

So, when an article on the, "Ten Best Almabtrieb" in Tirol landed across my news feeds, the long school holiday weekend was the perfect occasion to take our new wagon on its first road trip. 
The autobahn into the Tirol took us into Germany and then back into Austria. Given the migrant crisis and border closings in these parts, we weren't sure what to expect. Indeed, we had about an hour delay approaching the German border as traffic was reduced to one lane for border checks (no passport checks, just a once-over by the authorities.) At the border there were several tents where, I presume, migrants were being processed.  

Also near the border was a most interesting offering. A Spanish tapas bar between Germany and Austria? We didn't stop.
 The drive to our Tirolean chalet was like a route from a guide book.
And our village, something from a postcard.

The top apartment of this chalet was ours for three days. Two bedrooms, an up-to-my-standards kitchen, and a view we could not stop admiring. The weather was just mild enough to leave the windows open at night, and we fell asleep to the gentle sounds of our neighbor's bells softly ringing...

(Clayton Theodore, on the other hand, was more interested in our other neighbors.)
...and we awoke to the village parish church bell echoing off the mountains each morning. Just lovely.
 We ate well, too. Make that, very well. From bacon-wrapped pork medallions over spaetzle...
...to roast wild boar in mushroom sauce and sprinkled with meadow flowers...
 ...to bacon sandwiches to snack on while waiting for the cows.
And each evening, Almkäse and SüdTirolean wine before dinner.   Such luxury.
On Saturday we (and just a few others) enjoyed the village festival, with food and music to keep us entertained while the cows were prepping for their big parade.




Alpine horn music!

 The people watching was top-rate.


 There was traditional Aperschnalzen (whip-cracking), too.
 Then, the bovine celebrities!









 Afterwards, making our way to one of the dozens of biergartens for brats and beer.  We do not think it coincidence that these "Alpenburgers" were deposited across from this food stand!

Taking the scenic route back to our chalet, we passed through a small, small village holding its own Almabtrieb of sorts.  How lucky were we! More cows!


To Almhoamfahr'n!  To Tirol!  Prost!