Bratislava is Never Boring

Our plan to tour Schloss Niederweiden today, a little known former royal hunting palace (with an exceptional "wild kitchen" and the real reason for the visit) went Kaputt. Since we were just a few kilometers from Bratislava, we kept on driving. 

In some ways Bratislava feels like a weekend home, like the way the Czech Republic feels. The city has a few scruffy edges; and we know our way around to favorite stores and galleries. And the food, wherever we enjoy a meal, will be fabs.

 I recalled reading that Bratislava was hosting its Easter Market this weekend, so Tony and I wandered to the two known places in Stare Mesto for such events. Lo and behold, we found the tiny market along the boulevard near the National Theater.  Why even ask. Of course I fed my Easter egg addiction collection.

 This is one of the prettiest doors in Bratislava, at the Church of the Holy Savior. Usually there are people sitting on the stairs to muss up the photo.

Speaking of doors, I have been in search of this guide to the "new and cool" places in Bratislava, and finally found it!

"La Putika" was suggested as a place for a good selection of beers and whimsical French food. Not that we don't love Slovak cuisine. Alas, the restaurant was closed. 

 No worries. We made do quite well with piping pans of Halušky, soft potato noodles baked with sheep cheese and topped with bacon in a small wine keller.  Lunch was fabs, and, Bratislava is never boring.

Anatomy of our Favorite Heuriger

Just a two-minute walk from our house is our favorite heuriger. Family owned and operated since 1787, completely unpretentious, and serving what I have declared is the best Backhendl in Nest.

The friendly courtyard entrance, where crates of wine bottles sit alongside the toys of the family that live above the tavern. There is a beautiful garden, too, though the weather is a bit cool for al fresco dining.

A small and scrumptious selection.

I think we have tried just about every ham and sausage and smoked meat offered.

Table for two. Liptauer, the almost American-spicy spread and the heuriger wine to start.

No need to look at the menu. Backhendl in Nest mit Salat it always is. The potato salad is especially good, rich with a garlic flavor that pairs perfectly with the crispy chicken.

It is a good thing that from the new house our perfect evening will be only a 22 minute walk away.

Intelligence, Threatened. The University of Vienna

I set out to snap some of the "Important Buildings" of the Ringstrasse as part of the 150th anniversary, but the glorious, glorious, spring sun interfered with some of the lighting, so instead I ducked into the University of Vienna, the oldest university in the German-speaking world and one of the largest in Europe. The main campus building holds court along the busy Ringstrasse, but a walk into the courtyard provides a quiet and calm setting.

The arcades surrounding the courtyard are splendid, filled with busts of the important men who attended or taught at the university. Lise Meitner is also an alum, but I did not find her bust.

Freud and Doppler and Schrödinger. They're all alum.

 Not alum, but a rather important professor, judging by the memorial.

 Not an alum, either, but another professor whose likeness was striking compared to others.

By good fortune,  in the main campus building there is currently a thoroughly informative exhibit on the state of the university and rise of Fascism and Anti-Semitism from the post-WWI period through the end of WWII.  The complimentary retrospective newspaper, Intelligence Threatened, has made for great reading (and good German language practice).

So, a meeting point for the anti-semitic was the Paleobiology department? I guess the irony of meeting in a department known for something outdated was lost on these anti-semitic miscreants.

Anschluss. Anschluß. Take your pick.

 Post WWII damage to the main campus. Intelligence, threatened. No longer.

Ostermarkt at a Country Palace

A little blustery, but still, a lovely afternoon outing to the Easter Market at Schloss Hof, the former hunting lodge of Prince Eugene of Savoy, who led the Empire to victory over the invading Turks. In less blustery weather, the palace, grounds and outbuildings make for an excellent day trip. For me and for jet-lagged Tony, a walkabout the various market buildings was just enough.

Pheasant eggs, ready to be decorated. Beyond my skill set.

 Goose eggs, already decorated.

Stamps of wood for decorating textiles. Beautiful, but also way beyond my skill set.

 Craftsmen at work with willing helpers.

 The estate was dressed for the holiday.

 Near the farm.

Schloss Hof is quite family-friendly and one of the activities for the weekend was "Donkey Grooming." Something tells me these donkeys did not receive that memo.

 The petting farm was a busy place. Even I couldn't resist!

 If only we knew what the goats were thinking.

 Baa.

 Do not mess with this Rooster.

  The outbuildings can be identified by their signs.

 In the Gardener's shop, we had a lengthy conversation with a local gardener who contributes to the beauty of the estate. Though in half-English and half-German, I did catch enough to learn that he offers workshops in "Forest Pedagogy."  All I have to do is round up some friends and bring a picnic basket; he'll show us how to make beautiful decorations from the wilds. Sounds like a field trip to me!

To end, food and drink form the foundation of pretty much any event in Central Europe. Though, it was a little surprising to read this menu board.