Under the Sea in a Flak Tower

Possibly one of the coolest uses of an old Flak Tower, Vienna's Haus des Meers (aquarium). (The view from the roof terrace should help to explain why the tower can't be taken down.)

Anna Grace has been spearheading the summer itinerary; hence, the animal and nature theme of the last several posts. This was not our first visit to the aquarium, but always a great way to beat the heat. 

Seepferdchen, baby sea horses!

Possibly mom and dad?

In a stairwell, a reminder of the structure's history ("To the air raid shelter.")

Dancing Sea Worms

Oddly enough, we decided on sushi for lunch after leaving the aquarium!

Die Schöne Alte Donau

One morning earlier this week I joined friends old and new for a 7 km walking loop around the "Old Danube," a branch of the Danube remaining after reconfiguration of the river for flood control in the late 1800's.  The Alte Donau is separated from the Danube by dams and is essentially fed by groundwater, making it a perfect "lake" for water recreation. And for walking along.

Charming Beisls (a Jewish term that is now a common reference to a "house" that serves specialty foods, like a trattoria, perhaps) along the lake ensure that one is never far from something delicious to snack.

Not sure what this sign means.   Update: With much gratitude to a kind reader of the blog who informed me that the sign is of Hans Hass, an Austrian and diving pioneer. 

Though cottages along sections of the route evoke a seaside experience, a quick glance up reminded me that I am still in the city.

Lining the Alte Donau are also several beaches and boat rental facilities. A little bit of paradise in the heart of Vienna!

Idling Away a Saturday

"The plan" had been Munich, to cheer on our favorite Lady Knight and the team, in the first of the two season final tournaments. Alas, Mother Nature conspired against us in the form of cold temperatures and rain, and it being the only shelter at MIS is for the athletes, we canceled our hotel and remained in Vienna. 

To temper my surliness at missing yet another of Anna Grace's events, Tony suggested I guide him through the fabulous Russian avant-garde art exhibit at the Albertina followed with a walkabout and lunch. As usual, his plan was just what I needed.

Resting fiakers across from the Albertina.

The interior of Augustinerkirche, the original parish church of the Hapbsburgs (Napoleon was married here!)

This side altar is dedicated to Emperor Karl I, the last reigning Hapsburg. He is on track for sainthood in the Roman Catholic Church.

 Leaving the church we were just in time to see the Lippizaners heading across the lane from Stallburg to the Spanish Riding School for a morning performance. I never tire of seeing these horses.

 Then the rain began. Though, Peterskirche still sparkles under gray skies.

 We ducked in for lunch and afterwards the skies were blue again.

I had misread the dates for a market across the canal at Karmelitermarkt, but the afternoon was so pretty that we didn't mind wandering. This is Karmeliterkirche; alas, the church was closed so Tony could not peek inside.

This being the former Jewish quarter, it is not unexpected to find many Stolpersteine, reminding all who pass of the Jews taken from their homes and businesses and deported to concentration camps.

Afterward, the slog for a few grocery provisions in anticipation of the impending nearly 70 hour countrywide shutdown from Saturday 1800 through Sunday, Whit Monday, and the restocking of grocers by Noon on Tuesday. (There is little point to heading to the grocer on Tuesday morning, for the aisles will be crowded with floor cleaners and staff getting around to stocking shelves).  But hey, Vienna is the "World's Most Livable City," or something like that.

The day ended much better than it began, with our favorite Lady Knight besting 15 girls from 8 schools to take 1st in the High Jump. And, the Lady Knights took 2nd overall in the tournament. Go Knights!

Mother's Day Weekend, Part II: Genuss! and More Genuss!

My fabulous weekend transitioned from exploring the WasserSchloss to exploring the, "Best of Austria," this year's theme for the annual Genuss Festival in one of the city's largest parks and peddling 52km along the Danube.

"Best" Tirolean Pecorino? Why not bring home a wedge? We did. 

Schlicher Gespritzt, from a grape exclusively found in the Steiermark, and best paired with a plate of cured meat. When in Rome...

 From Kärnten, the Kärtner Knodel, dumpling-like and akin to the Polish pierogi. At the demonstration I gave the preparation of the Knodel my best effort and, according to tradition, am now, "Marry-able" because I can press a Kärtner Knodel good enough to woo a husband. Good thing, too, because Tony and I celebrated our anniversary on Sunday and I'd hate to think that 23 years was all for naught.

 Ah, Wildschwein (boar) salami and something white from Niederösterreich.

 Back to the Tirol and its Kaspressnödel, a delicious concoction of potatoes, farm cheese and herbs that have been shaped into cakes and fried. We brought a bag home.

From a Wiener vendor, the Käsekrainer, a grilled sausage studded with cheese. Not for everyone (I dislike the street vendor versions), though I found myself taking more than a single bite from the plate.  When paired with something G'spritz, the sausage was quite good. 

 What is not to love about a country that displays its Schmalz (lard) on cake stands?

 Or slices its meat with table saws?  Hard to believe, but we somehow managed to find ourselves hungry in time for dinner on Saturday!

And on Sunday, the lure of a gorgeous day had us up and out of the house by 0830, peddling our way along the Donau and the Donau-Auen, Central Europe's largest wetlands reserve. 

The things one discovers. Along our path we found a marker erected as recently as 2010, memorializing the Jewish women and children who had taken refuge in the woods along the river between 1938 and 1945, just on the edge of Vienna.

Cycling through the wetlands was a highlight. We were even treated to several beavers flapping and splashing about!

Hunger struck about halfway into the planned 60km ride, but there was not an Imbiss ("fast food" stand offering Wursts and easily-eaten snacks) in sight, so we were left with no choice but to sit for lunch at the only restaurant in a nearby village. Everyone was dressed for Sunday lunch (except we) and fussing over Mutters and Großmutters for Mutterstag (except we). Though no one in the restaurant was overtly rude (unless you count the stares), it was clear that we English-speakers (we spoke German to the waitstaff, natürlich) dressed in shorts and polos Did. Not. Fit. In. 

Like the dutiful people we and our children were raised to be, not a morsel of that ginormous Schnitzel remained on our plates when we left the restaurant. That probably explains why we only finished 52 of the 60 planned kilometers for this ride!

Exploring a WasserSchloss, eating our way around Austria, and cycling the Danube. How much better could a Mother's Day Weekend be?